Method for sewing a waist band or the like onto a garment



Dec. 29, 1964 K HEDEGAARD 3,163,139

METHOD FR SEWING A WAIST BAND OR THE LIKE ONTO A GARMENT Filed Oct. 10,1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENI'OR Kfl/JTf/V 7 9 4 Dec. 29, 1964 K.HEDEGAARD 3,163,139

METHOD FOR SEWING A WAIST BAND OR THE LIKE ONTO A GARMENT Filed Oct. 10,1962 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Fig.5

BY M 4 United States Patent O 3,163,13 'METHUB FOR SEWING A WAIST BANDQR THE LIKE (INTO A GARMENT Kristen Hedegaard, Gentofte, Denmark,assignor to G. M. Pfafi A.G., Kaiserslautern, Pfalz, Germany Filed Get.10, I962, Ser. No. 229,667 Claims priority, application Germany, st. 14,1961, P 28,041 1 Claim. (Ci. 112-262) The present invention relates to amethod for sewing a waist band or similar component onto a garment andto apparatus and means for carrying out this method. The band with whichwe are concerned here is of the type which comprises a band strip and alining for this strip, where on the finished garment the seams aredisposed inside the band in contradistinction to bands where the bandseams of finished garments are disposed visibly upon the surface of thematerial.

It was cutomary heretofore to sew such a band on a sewing machine havingonly a single needle. This required a series of time-consuming workingoperations. First the turned over projection of the band had to becircumsewed at the edges. Thereupon the upper border of the band stripwas sewed together with that of the lining strip for the hand. Then in afurther operation the lower edge of the band strip was sewn onto theupper edge of the garment. After turning over the forward end andfolding as well as ironing the band thus far sewn, the lining forthisband in strip form was sewn onto the band.

In accordance with the invention a method is provided which makes itpossible with the use of a post sewing machine having two needles toovercome the aforementioned shortcomings and to sew in a shorter periodof time an attractive looking band, with the seams concealed in theinterior thereof, onto a partly completed garment. In accordance withthe invention this is accomplished in that after sewing together theforward edges of the band strip and of the lining strip for the band,first the lateral edges of the band strip are sewn together on a turnedover length of band strip corresponding to the band projection orextension by means of a double needle post sewing machine having amaterial passage aperture between the stitch forming tools, and then theupper edge of the garment and the upper edge of the lining strip for theband are simultaneously sewn together with the band strip, one with oneneedle and the other with the other needle of the machine, whereupon theband lining strip is sewn on in a known manner upon reversing the bandextension by means of a seam extending in the fold between the bandstrip and the garment.

Accordingly the upper edge of the garment and the upper edge of the bandlining strip are each to be sewn onto an edge of the band strip in asingle operation, so that overturning of the parts of material ispossible. This requires that the garment and the band lining strip areguided through between the hooks or loopers of the machine while theupper edges of the garment and of the band lining strip are sewntogether with the band strip as they are turned outwardly at an angle ofapproximately 90.

For carrying out the method a double needle post sewing machine isemployed which has two looper or hook posts arranged at a distance fromone another symmetrically with respect to the center of the needle bar,which accommodate the feeding tools and the stitch forming tools.

Further features and objects of the invention and details of theadvantages obtained thereby will become aparent from the followingdescription of the accompany- "ice ing drawings illustrating individualmethod steps and of an example also illustrated in the drawings for theconstruction of a suitable device for carrying out the method. In thedrawings,

FIG. 1 is a perspective illustration of the post sewing machine providedwith the device for carying out the new method;

FIG. 2 is a perspective view of the device drawn to an enlarged scaleshowing details of the sewing tools and of the material feeding tools.For better visibility one band or strip feeding apparatus has beenomitted and the other is shown moved aside.

FIG. 3 is a perspective illustration of one part of the back of themachine with details of the roller feeding device;

FIG. 4 is a perspective illustration of the turned over band strip sewnalong the lateral edges, at the forward edge of which the lining stripis sewn on perpendicularly to its longitudinal extent;

FIG. 5 is a view similar to FIG. 4 where the border edge of the garmentis inserted between the turned over band-strip portions;

FIG. 6 is a view similar to FIG. 5 with the lining placed thereon;

FIG. 6a is a perspective view of the completed band in accordance withFIG. 6;

FIG. 7 is a view similar to FIG. 5 with the band strip additionally laidon as it is sewn along in the production of a so-called tunnel band;

FIG. 8 is a perspective illustration of the completed and reversedtunnel band, and

' FIG. 9 is a section along lines IX-IX of FIG. 8.

On the base plate 1 of the sewing machine a standard 2 is mounted fromwhich extends the machine arm 3 I shaft/7 which is horizontallyjournallel in the machine arm 3, so that the needle bar oscillator 6 isenabled to effect oscillatory movements in a plane disposed perpendicularly to the longitudinal extent of the arm 3.

The needle bar 5 is provided with a needle support 8 which carries theneedles 9 which are secured thereto. The presser bar 10 journalled inthe head 4 has secured thereto the balancing presser foot 11. Thismember has three soles 12, 13, 14 which are vertically movable. The twosoles 12 and 14 are linked in a manner known per se, but notillustrated, to a double armed balancing lever, which means that theyare movable independently of one another.

In a recess 15 in the base plate 1 the left post 16 is mounted and at adistance therefrom the right post 17, both symmetric with respect to theneedle bar center. The needles 9 cooperate for forming double or lockstitches with the horizontally rotating hooks or loopers (not shown)arranged in the two posts.

The work blank is fed by a compound needle and bottom feed arangement atthe stitch formation location. At the same time the needles 9 and thematerial feed dogs 22, 23, which extend from slots 20, 21 provided inthe stitch plates 18 and 19, effect coordinated movements in thedirection of feed.

The material feeding is aided by a known roller feeding device. Thecarrier 24 of this device is secured behind the head 4 of the machine.The carrier bar 25 is journalled in a bore of the support or carrier 24and in a sleeve 26 threadedly received in the carrier 24. The sleeve 26serves for tensioning a pressure spring 28 which extends between thelifting member 27 and the sleeve 26 secured to the carrier bar. Thelifting member 27 is provided with a lateral bridge, member 29 whichextends into the groove 30 of the carrier 24 and prevents turning of thecarrier bar 25.

Between the legs of the supporting yoke 31 secured to the lower end ofthe. carrier bar 25 the feeding roller 33 is secured to the shaft 32rotatably journalled in bores of the supporting yoke 31. At one end ofthe shaft 32 extending from the supporting yoke 31 is secured the disk34 and at the other end the step setting mechanism 35. The drive of thefeed roller 33 is effected by means of the cam 37 encompassed by the cambar 36 and secured upon the arm shaft 7, byway of the rocking lever 40linked to cam bar 36 and clamped onto shaft 39 rotatably journalled onthe rigid sleeve 38, and by way of the rocking lever 41 secured to theother end of the shaft 39 and the connecting bar 42 linked at one end tothe latter and at the other end to the crank arm of the step settingmechanism 35.

A double armed compensating lever 45 is mounted for pivotal movementabout the bearing stud 44 on an angular member 43 secured to the basefor the posts, and bars 48 having angular lugs 47 are linked to the endof said lever 45 by means of trunnion screws 46. Rollers 49' arerotatably mounted on the angular members 47. For parallel guidance thebars 48 are provided with longitudinal slots 50 through which extendtrunnion screws 51 which are threadedly received in the posts 16, 17.The bars 48 which carry the rollers 49 are vertically movable in unisonby means of this arrangement.

The band entrance device 52 with the angular support 53 which isprovided for feeding in the hand strip 65 is secured to the front ofthehead 4 of the machine for pivotal movement about the trunnion screw 54.

For feeding in the lining strip 67 a second band entrance device 55 isprovided, This comprises a support 56 secured to the left post 16 andprovided with vertical boresinwhich a support rod 57'is rotatablyreceived and secured against axial; displacement by means of two settingrings 58. Feed plates 59, 60 which are closed at the bottom are also.secured to the support rod 57. Finally a clamping member 61 is providedupon the support rod 57 inwhich is secured theangular support 62 havinga turning plate 63 mounted thereon.

In order; to avoid that the abutting edges of the band strip 64 and; ofthe liningstrip 67 would have to be sewn together by handon the insideof the completed garment 66, a band strip- 64'is suitably utilized inthe method in accordance with the invention, which is already partlysewn on at its forward edge 65b onto the forward edge 67a of the; liningstrip 67in a direction perpendicular to the longitudinal extent of thestrip. It is furthermore expeditious to adapt the length of the twostrips 64 and 67 to thelength of the circumference of the garment 66while at the sametime taking into account the length of the bandextension 65. The band strip 64 and the lining strip 67' may, however,also be fed to the stitch formation locations. by means of rollers.

Theflndiyidual steps of the method for sewing the band onto the garmentare carried out in accordance with the invention as follows:

First the lateral edges 65a of the band strip 64 turned overtocorrespond tothe length of the baud extension 65 aresewntogether (FIG.4). Thereupon, if strip portions are used which have already been cut tosize, the remaining lengths of the band strip 64 and of theappertainingliningstrip 67 are fed backwardly into the band entrancedevice 52, 55. One needle of the two needle-sewing machine-then sews theupper edge of the garment 66 onto the lower edge of the band strip 64,while the second needle sews the upper edge of the lining strip 67 ontothe upper edge of the band strip 64. In thisconnection the border of thelining strip 67 is turned over outwardly through an angle ofapproximately 90 4 with the aid of the turnover plate 63. The border ofthe garment 66 is turned over manually. The garment 66 as well as thelining strip 6'7 are fed in between the two posts 16 and 17 as this stepof the operation is carried out. In this manner the sewing of the bandis completed up to the terminal seam.

When the two strips 64 and 67 which are to be placed into the two bandentrance devices 52, 55 are pulled from endless rolls of strip, then theforward edge of the band strip 64 is turned over to an extent ofapproximately /5 to /5 inch. Then a length of band strip correspondingto the band extension 65 is folded under, and the lateral edges 65a aresewn together (FIG. 4).

The next step of operation is the feeding and sewing in of the edge ofthe garment 66 between the turned over layers of the band extension 65and the lower edge of the band strip 64. Thereupon the band lining strip67 placed into the band entrance device 55 is fed in with an edge 6711turned over manually and downwardly to abut the butt edge of the bandstrip 64 (FIG. 5) and is sewn onto the upper edge of the band strip 64.

in this manner the sewing of the band is completed up to the terminaledge, whereby the edge of the lining strip 67 is turned over outwardlyby means of the turnover plate 63, and the edge of the garment 66 isturned over manually, each through an angle of approximately 96, and thegarment 66 as well as the lining strip 67 are guided through between thetwo posts 16 and 17. The strip lining 68 which is fed in by hand is sewnin at the proper location between the lining strip 67 and band strip 64(FIG. 6). Finally the band strip 64 and the lining strip 67 are cut offat the end of the garment 66.

If a band of the type generally known as a tunnel band is to be sewn(FIGS. '7, 8), then it is possible to sew in between the band strip 64on the one side and the garment 66 as Well as the lining strip 67 on theother side at the locations provided therefor, during the sewing on ofthe garment 66 as well as of the lining strip 67, a further band strip65? onto the band strip 64 with the ends turned over upwardly.

Upon turning over the band extension 65 and proper ironing of the band,the lining strip 67 is sewn from the outside in a known manner on anormal straight stitch sewing machine by means of a seam 70 in the foldbetween band strip 64 and garment 66 (FIG. 9). Thereupon the outerborder of the terminal strip of the garment 66 with the strip lining 68are sewn together in a manner not illustrated, with the outer sidesresting against each other. The strip lining 68 is turned over and sewnon the garment 66 parallel to and at a distance with respect to theouter edge.

Having now described my invention with reference to the new methodprovided thereby and illustrated in the drawings and with reference tothe apparatus employed for carrying out said method, I do not wish to belimited thereto, but What I desire to protect by Letters Patent of theUnited States is set forth in the appended claim.

I claim:

Method for sewing a waist band comprising a band strip and a liningstrip onto a garment with the seams disposed inside the band, saidmethod comprising the steps of partly sewing together on a straightstitch sewing machine abutting forward edge of the band strip and of thelining strip transversely of the longitudinal extent of said band andsaid lining strip, manually turning over a length of the band strip toform a band extension and a free band strip portion having an upper edgeand a lower edge, sewing together the lateral edges of the bandextension thus formed on a double needle post sewing machine having anaperture for the passage of material between the stitch forming tools onthe posts, placing the upper edge of a garment and the upper edge of thelining strip below the free band strip portion, said edges of thegarment and the lining strip facing away from each other and being inalignment with the respective edges of the band strip, sewingsimultaneously with the double needle post sewing machine the lower edgeof the band strip onto the upper edge of the garment with one needle andthe upper edge of the band stn'p onto the upper edge of a lining stripwith the other needle, then turning said band extension inside out,folding the lining strip over the sewn component edge parts of garment,lining strip and band strip, and then sewing the lining strip on astraight stitch sewing machine onto the References Cited by the ExaminerUNITED STATES PATENTS Molyneux 112-262 Stauss 2-236 Myers 112-260 Engmanet a1 2-236 Wesson 112-260 Schweich 112-262 garment with a seam in thefold between the band strip 10 JORDAN FRANKLIN Primary Examiner DAVID I.WILLIAMOWSKY, Examiner.

and the garment.

